Sunday, November 14, 2010

The good, the bad, and the Korean

I thought this week I would just give a few musings of life in Korea, as well as show a few pictures of things going on in.  Let us begin with the musings...

I knew that coming to Korea would mean some awesome experiences but also some true challenges.  I guess that is true of life in general, regardless where you go and what you do.  I think the interesting part is what I find myself struggling with... for instance, I thought the language barrier would be the most frustrating part of being in Korea.  And for sure it's difficult.  I do wish I could talk to my students or read street signs.  Yet in my day to day life I have developed enough "survival Korean" phrases or at least have developed a pattern with certain stores and places that I can basically communicate that I want that cup of coffee or the purple yarn on the left or an order of tuna kimbap.  Instead what I have found the most frustrating on a day to day basis are things like not having a clothes dryer or being freezing cold in my classroom or the sweetness of all tomato sauces (whether that is on pizza or the pasta sauce they sell at the grocery store) or not being able to drive.  I have definitely taken for granted certain conveniences and brands in Canada. 

Another interesting thing is the relationships I have with the people I work with.  I mentioned in my last post that I found the "honeymoon period" of teaching to be over.  This is still true.  As it is with any job, you seem to have a certain grace period and then the bar is risen of expectations.  And really and truly I appreciate the challenge in my job.  I like having projects to work on that are difficult and I like trying to think of creative ways to teach prepositions or phonics.  What is more challenging, however, is understanding how to work with my fellow colleagues.  I'm finding it really interesting to decipher if a certain challenge is due to a cultural barrier, language difference, or personality clash.  Sometimes it's a combination of all three!

This past week I was told that of the 22 classes I teach every week, 18 of them are going to be split between me and my co-teacher, so I will now solo teach most of what I do in a week.  The only classes that Jenny and I will co-teach will be grades 1 and 2 (two classes of each).  This can be a daunting thought. What it means, for example,  is that when I have a classroom of 5th graders who really only speak Korean, I have no Korean translator.  It really challenges me to explain lessons and thoughts as simply as possible.  Sometimes when I think I have explained something as simple as I possibly can and the students still do not understand instructions, I have to come at the problem from a different direction.  I have to make better use of visual aids and examples.  It really challenges me to be more creative than I would be if Jenny was there with me for every class ready to communicate in Korean.

Another fascinating aspect of being in Korea is the obsession I am seeing in the Korean English teachers toward their weight.  I have heard every single one of the women complain that they are too fat, they need to lose weight, they wish they had a six pack, or they should stop eating.  This is a daily occurrence.  It is fascinating because they are all so little!  Moreover... I have been complimented many times on my small face.  MY SMALL FACE!!!!  One woman at the knitting shop even told me in broken English that she liked my pretty little head!!!!!  I have NEVER been told I have a small head!!!!!  In fact if they knew half the time I purchase hats in the men's section in Canada I doubt they could say that!  But it's just their cultural perspective.  They see themselves as having large faces and heads and always, permanently overweight and they see this white girl (me) as having a smaller face with big eyes.  I may be white, and I may have big eyes, but the rest... well... lets just say it's fascinating!

I feel so blessed in Boeun with the friends I have already made.  Whether it's walking to the gym with Laura or going out with Angela or having a games night at Chris and Betty's (who continue to be awesome neighbours!!)... I'm having a great time!  Even though I definitely did NOT win playing Apples to Apples on Friday night.  Today (Sunday) I even went to church with Julie in Choengju!  It was wonderful to first of all be at church and great to be there with someone from my town.  Julie was the person who I replaced at Samsan Elementary School who is back in Boeun teaching at another school.  She's definitely great to have around because if I have any questions regarding the school, she's actually been there!  Such a great help to have that insight available.

Speaking of the gym, I thought I'd show a couple pictures of what the gym I go to looks like (at least the outside).  The gym is in a fairly new building that has a work out room, a pool, outside fields, an outside track and other things like a ping pong playing room (where I'm a little intimidated to go... even though, thanks to James, I have had experience at a ping pong club before...).  The walk to the gym from my house is around 10-15 minutes, plus up a crazy steep staircase that provides a crazy warm up before a work out and a place where I cling to the railing for dear life when I'm done working out and I precariously make my way down...
 I realize this photo does not adequately depict... but seriously that is one steep staircase!!
 One of the fields at the sports centre.  Plus you can see that the leaves are changing!  I love fall...
 This from the top of the staircase... a different view of my town, Boeun.

 The gym!  And the arena/track/field area.  The main building where the work out room and pool is up on the left.  It's a fairly new facility!  Really nice and clean.

I think the question that is asked of me most consistently from home is what the food is like in Korea.  So I thought I'd start taking more photos of what I'm eating to give you a sense of what the local cuisine is like.  Monday through Friday I have traditional Korean food for lunches in the cafeteria but in the evenings I have a variety of things.  Sometimes I cook for myself, sometimes I get take out, and sometimes I go out with some of the other foreign teachers.  This past week I had food from a "Traditional Korean Porridge Restaurant."  It's basically a kind of rice porridge/stew/soup that you can have cooked with a variety of things like vegetables, beef, seafood, seaweed, etc...  I had the veggie kind.  Also, you get a few sides, like kimchi (of course!), this other hot thing made of radishes and red pepper stuff, some beef that tasted like it was marinated with teriyaki sauce and this other side that I have no idea what it was... so I avoided it.
 Take out!
 All piled in there...

My feast!  I even ate the kimchi!  

You have to understand that I don't dislike kimchi, it's just that kimchi is served every day at lunch and with every Korean meal you will ever have.  In fact I found out that most of the teachers eat it at pretty much every meal in the day, including breakfast.  That blows me away!  Considering my breakfast pretty much is toast (with peanut butter), yogurt, maybe fruit, and coffee everyday.  No kimchi.  And I don't think that's something that is going to change... no matter how long I am in Korea...

Hope that shows you all a bit more of my life in Boeun!

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Four weeks and counting

Time is a funny thing.  In some ways it seems to speed by so fast you can barely catch your breath.  Other times it seems to be crawling at a snail's pace.  Sometimes these feelings are simultaneous... which is how I feel about time in South Korea.  In some ways it feels like just yesterday I was at my parents' house in Edmonton, receiving word that I will officially leave for South Korea in a couple days.  In that sense I cannot believe I have been here for 4 weeks already!  In other ways, it feels like I've been in Korea for a very long time. Those are the moments when I miss home.

I'd say for the most part South Korea is still really good.  Living in Boeun and working at Samsan is still exciting and challenging in a way that inspires me.  I'm happy to have a purpose when I wake up Monday through Friday.  I love watching the kids learn.  It's definitely a good experience to exercise some independence and courage I didn't even know I had.  Like when I'm taking a bus somewhere alone or trying to communicate in a country that does not speak the same language as I do.  I'm definitely proud to be here.

I think when it comes to teaching, my "honeymoon" grace period is fairly over.  I'm sensing expectations of my responsibilities and abilities have definitely risen.  The past week in particular brought more difficulties with communicating at school.  But I do not feel discouraged.  Although language and cultural barriers exist, I still welcome the challenge and really do want to take any critique or learning moment seriously to become a more effective ESL teacher.  I find myself baffled at times over the lack of communication within the school, from the administration to teachers, or from one teacher to another.  Yet I was definitely warned by other English teachers that that would be one of the more difficult aspects of teaching in Korea, and it would continue throughout my entire year here.  It has nothing to do with me, it's just the way the school itself functions.

Here are a few points of interest that have happened over the past couple weeks since my last blog post:

- Alien Registration Card: As a foreigner in Korean, I had to apply for an Alien Registration Card, which is my foreigner ID.  One cannot get a cell phone, internet, lots of things, without first having an ARC.  So I went with one of the teachers from my school, Daheye, into the neighbouring city, Cheongju, to apply for it.  When we were going through the process with an employee at the government building, she told me that the passport size photos I had brought along for the ID card photo could not be used because my hair was covering my ears.  So I had to get new photos taken.  Luckily the gov building had a photo booth in the basement for passport photos.  So Daheye and I follow this woman through the maze of the building and finally get to the basement to a photo booth, much like the ones you see in malls in Canada where you pile your friends in to take a funny set of four photos.  When I sit in the booth the woman explains to me, in Korean, that the machine will say "1, 2, 3" and then take my photo so I have to keep my eyes open.  Unfortunately, what she actually said was that the booth says "1, 2," and then takes the photo on "3" so when she started the machine and I was preparing to keep my eyes open for after 3... the photo of me was of my eyes half closed and with a weird half smile.  She got quite upset with me and had to run back upstairs to get a token to make the machine run.  So when she finally came back to me and had to explain how to take the photo correctly I felt quite bad and did not want to repeat the experience.  Instead I decided to counteract the closed eyes and half smile as best I could... so here is the result:
 Surprised, awkward Stephanie is now on my ID card which I have to show so many people in Korea... And they pretty much laugh every time.  It's good thing I have a sense of humour! :)
 Not only that, but I have 6 copies of it!  Well 4 now, because one went to the ID card and the other went to one of the teachers at my school who found it so funny she had to keep it!
But now I have an ID card!  When means I got internet for my apartment, a cell phone, a bank account, a gym membership, so many things!  Basically you can barely sign up for anything without this card.  It's like I actually live in Korea now!

- Spiders.  Ok... if any of you know me, you know that I don't handle living creatures that are not humans very well.  Dogs I do not know kind of freak me out, bugs creep me out, anything kind of creepy crawly I do not like in general.  Korea definitely has different spiders!  And they are large.  And have yellow stripes like a bee.  And one has taken up residence on my little balcony.  I'm just going to let him have it.  He was here first.  But here's what he looks like...

This is for the Schmidt kids who keep asking me if I've seen any cool animals yet...
Also, every morning, almost without fail, I find a weird beetle looking bug in my bathroom.  So I kill it with my shower shoes and pretend like nothing out of the ordinary happened.  I think that's growth.  No need to freak out.  Mom and Dad, aren't you proud?  Only took 26 years...

- Karaoke!  Or Noraebang, as it's called in Korean.  I went with a few of the other foreign teachers in Boeun to this awesome Noraebang place!  You can rent a private room by the hour and sing as many songs as you want, with a great light show, comfy couches, drinks, food, general awesomeness!  It was such a great time!
 Simon and Laura kicked it off.  They're both from the UK.
 Chris, from the States, also being a rock star
 I love going to karaoke with people who love to sing!  Laura is definitely one of those people!
 Chris and Betty, both from the States, are my neighbours!  They have been such a great help to me with so many things!  Plus they love karaoke!  Always a plus with new friends!
 The room comes equipped with tambourines to add a special touch to all the songs.  Laura and Simon are having a go!
 We're such rock stars
 Simon is hilarious and seriously has the best moves
 Group song!
 Singing some Avril Lavigne!

-Skating!  Laura is an avid figure skater and I did grow up in Canada, so last Saturday her and I went to the ice rink in Cheongju.  Unfortunately, the rink did not rent out figure skates, which is what I am used to back home.  Laura fortunately brought hers from the UK, but I had to rent hockey skates at the rink.  Now, although I have skated since I was a kid, I'm far from good.  And then you add trying to figure out how to skate with a completely different kind of skate... well, let's just say I didn't represent Canada very well on the ice.  Haha... but at least I had fun! 
 Hockey skates
 I was very proud of myself by the end!  I got around pretty good and only became more confident as the hour went by.  I'm sure before long I'll be a pro... haha... or hopefully at least be able to stop without falling.  It's good to have goals.

- Starbucks!  I was absolutely excited to also go with Laura to Starbucks in Cheongju!  After skating we hit up the downtown area for some shopping but first stopped in Starbucks so I could get a little taste of home. 
 It's oddly comforting that no matter where you go in the world, Starbucks is the same.  Maybe some people would think that's sad, but I kind of love it.  And I love that it does change the menu a bit depending where you are so each country has a special touch.  I openly admit I was a little too excited about this excursion.
 See Laura is happy too!
Mmmmm... enjoying my Caramel Macchiato.  Splendid!  Also, I knew what I was ordering because part of the sign was in English.  That was really helpful too!


I hope that gives a little but more of a sense of what's been happening with me in Korea.  Thanks again for all the emails, comments, prayers, Skype convos, etc... I really appreciate hearing from people back home!  I'll post more as things happen. 

Sunday, October 24, 2010

First Days in Boeun

It's hard to believe I've been here for two weeks now!  So far my life in Boeun is really good.  I'm definitely still in the Honeymoon phase, where everything seems a little surreal and I'm just trying to process being on the other side of the world!  I'm realizing that not very many people know much English in the town so I'm getting better and better at gesturing, virtually playing charades, to communicate when I want food to go or I want to know the price of an item.  Although I have a comprehensive phrasebook, I haven't remembered many phrases in Korean yet myself.  Something I definitely want to work on!

Fortunately I met up with Matt and Courtney, friends of mine who have both taught in Korea.  They gave me a crash course in reading the Korean symbols and pronunciation and the like.  Now I can walk into a typical Korean restaurant and communicate that I want gimbap (steamed rice rolled up with seaweed and other kinds of vegetables, maybe fish.  It reminds me of sushi).  I'm definitely getting more used to the food.  On a day to day basis I eat food in the school's cafeteria with the other teachers and students.  Every day we have rice and variations of kimchi, meat, fruit, other sides.  The food has been really good so far!  Every once in awhile something on my plate freaks me out if I think about it too much, and I refuse to be the Canadian girl they laugh about because she doesn't want to eat quail eggs or something, so I've eat everything!

When I originally set out to live in South Korea I requested to live in a city, not in the countryside.  And now I'm somewhere in between!  Boeun is a pretty small town, especially compared to the large cities of South Korea, with a population of about 45,000 people.  It has everything I need for day to day life like grocery stores, restaurants, cafes, pharmacies, hospital, so on and so on. 

 Downtown Boeun.  If you see that orange sign, that's a typical Korean restaurant.  You see those orange signs everywhere.
 More of Boeun
On Saturday vendors hit the street and open up food or other kinds of stands.  It's totally crowded.  You can see that van trying to drive down the street, technically trying to keep to a side, but it just all blends together.
 A covered shopping area
On the bridge
On the first weekend I was here, Boeun had its annual Boeun Ocher Apple Festival to celebrate the fruit Boeun is famous for, the jujube.  I went to the festival with some of the English teachers and heard a Korean singer as well as had some great food!
 Town clock and festival signs.  You can see that under the clock are permanent jujubes.
 Some of the displays at the festival
 I have zero idea who this singer was but he was dressed like a leprechaun...
 Me and Angela at the festival.  Angela is a fellow teacher at my school, SamSan Elementary School.  She's great!
 Food tents and crowds
 Fireworks even!  Boeun is very excited about the jujube.
 A woman making pajeon, a Korean pancake with different vegetables in it. 
Our feast at the festival, kimchi pajeon, chicken wings, and a drink I do not remember the name of but it was made with the juice of the jujube.  Very delicious!

As fine as Boeun is in the day to day, it's also nice that there are larger cities close by where I can get Western food, go shopping, have some entertainment.  I even went to my first movie in Korea!  Popcorn and everything!  Felt like home!
 Popcorn!  Yes!  Angela and Jenny are enjoying some before we go into the theatre
 Looks like theatres at home!  Just everything in Korean...
 What is showing right now... we went to theatre 3 so so Money Never Sleeps, which is really good!  Even with Korean subtitles below, haha...
 Sitting in our assigned seats before everything starts.  Everyone keeps laughing at me taking pictures of the mundane things...
 After the movie Jenny took Angela and I out for "Western" food at a lovely restaurant called Lake Restaurant because it's right beside a lake.  Everything is still served with rice and kimchi... probably like how we "Americanize" Korean food, or any Asian food for that matter, Koreans do the same with Western food it seems.
 My Italian pork cultet.  You know it's Italian food because there is a couple pieces of pepperoni on it and maraschino cherries.  I'm not exactly sure what that was supposed be like... but it was pretty good!  I just took the maraschino cherries off.  Just seemed odd on pork.
My co-teacher Jenny.  She's wonderful!  I like her a lot.

So there's more of my life in Korea thus far.  I still have to show you all pictures of the crazy spider that is on my balcony and the drama of my ID card.  But I'm here for a year... more to come!

Thanks for all the emails, comments, messages, etc etc.  Love it all!  I definitely miss home but less so with the constant contact through technology.  Makes me so grateful to be traveling in this time in the world.  Till next time...

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

South Korea at Last

I am officially in South Korea!!!

I woke up bright and early Sunday, October 10th to be at the airport by 5:30 am.  From there I flew to San Francisco, which is about a 3 hour flight.  I had a longer than anticipated layover and just hung out there from 9ish to 2:05 when my flight from San Fran to Seoul departed.  That was a 12 hour ordeal!  The only thing that made the time go by so quickly was that they had every episode of the last half of Glee's first season!  So I was loving my life until that was over and I realized I still had hours ahead of me... I was on Syngapore airlines which was such an interesting experience!  I've never seen female flight attendants wearing dresses and having tons of makeup on before.  And the food was an experience in and of itself.  And I think I slept for maybe an hour.  It was just so difficult to do so!


When I finally landed in Seoul and after going through customs, I finally walked through the doors to the outside world!  I met my recruiter, Pam Ji, who then bought me a ticket on a bus to get from Seoul to Cheongju, just shy of a 3 hour bus ride.  She said that a teacher from my school would meet me in Cheongju and then drive me to where I was going to live in Boeun.  Another lovely thing Pam told me was some horror story about an English teacher in a different city who was just beaten up and almost raped.  I wouldn't call Pam a sensitive person.  Not the best story to tell a newly arrived English teacher.

So when the bus finally arrived in Boeun and there was no one there I think that was the moment I became the most anxious.  Imagine me trying to cart around two massive suitcases, one small suitcase, and a very full backpack to find a good place to sit and wait while people keep staring at me and walking right by.  It was weird.

Finally Jenny, a native Korean English teacher arrived!  She picked me up in her Hyundai and drove me to a motel in Cheongju where I was to stay for the night.  In the morning she then drove me to Boeun.  I got barely any sleep that night because I was so freaked out that I was going to sleep through when I had to wake up because I didn't have an alarm clock to wake me up that I think I woke up every half hour.
 The motel I stayed at

Finally in the morning I arrived in Boeun!  Jenny took me to my apartment, which is surprisingly larger than I was expecting!  I have a kitchen, bathroom, 2 areas that are like sun rooms, a small bedroom, and a larger bedroom/living area.  I guess calling the "shower" in my bathroom a shower is a little bit of an exaggeration and I have a feeling that's going to be one of the harder things to get used to!  And I do not have enough storage for all my stuff, but I'm sure I'll figure something out.  There's a TV, couch, microwave, bed, stove, fridge/freezer, and so much more.  So far I'm loving it!  My neighbours are all teachers just a different schools throughout Boeun.  I'm excited to get to know them more as well. 
 This is my apartment from the street.  There are four in this building and mine is on the top floor on the right.
 Entry way
 Just inside the entry way, looking into the apartment.  To the right is the kitchen.  The door you see that is dark on the right is to a bedroom, straight ahead is the kitchen, and to the left is the master bedroom/living area.
 Kitchen.  I think the tile is very cute!  You can see I have a little stove for cooking and the fridge has a good little freezer which already has meat and bread in it!
 The "guest" bedroom, more so my storage area.  Probably the least exciting room right now.
 Bathroom
 That is the right side of the bathroom, looking in from the doorway.  That is technically my "shower", which is definitely going to take getting used to!
 The largest room, master bedroom/living area.  This is it from one end.  You can see I am at the moment simply lining my shoes up on the floor... haha.  Not the best organization but I'll figure something out eventually.  And that big white thing in the corner is the air conditioner.  In desperate need of decorations!
 View from the other end.  This is much nicer to look at!  I have a larger TV here than I did in Canada!  No service yet, but it's there.  And I bought pillows (last night I just stuffed sweat shirts and stuff into the pillowcases).  The couch is more functional than comfortable.  I'm going to have to buy some pillows and a blanket for it to make it a little nicer.
 My desk!  Thanks to Mika, Maren, Cari, Kezia, Bente, etc for the cards and stuff.  It's my very minimal decor so far.  And I have my Bible and InStyle magazine... priorities!  And I did buy an alarm clock so I can sleep peacefully.  If you can see in the right corner I'm hoping to make friends to play Rook!!!
 My closet!  All my clothing is organized already!  Mom you raised me right...
 My washing machine in one of the "sun rooms"... very lucky to have it!  And you can see me too... haha...
 View from the other end of the kitchen.  I secretly (I guess now not so secretly) love that my microwave is red!  Looks so snazzy!
I went to the grocery store with Jenny on yesterday and got some groceries and other supplies (like hangers and toilet paper).  It's really nice that I have lunch at the school in the cafeteria.  That is good for saving money, that's for sure!  Though the food is a little strange to me, for the most part I really like it.  Then I just have something small for supper like soup or egg and toast.  Today for lunch we had rice with carrots, bean sprouts, cooked egg, and octopus!  Like with the little suction cups on them and everything!  It was very spicy and very good!  Also seaweed soup and kimchi.  I'm trying to get used to the kimchi...
Today has been an interesting day.  I went to the doctor to have the medical exam.  I need a certificate (or something like that) from the doctor so I can get my alien ID card as well as pay a reentry fee so I can go in and out of the country.  The doctor was definitely a strange experience.  That's a place where the language barrier is nerve wracking!  They checked my height, weight, eye sight, blood, xrayed my upper body, blood pressure, and urine.  Apparently my eye sight is very good.  That's nice to hear!
So far the people in my school have been so great!  I met the other foreign (as in American) teacher today, a woman named Angela.  She is going to be such a great teaching resource for me!  Teaching has been fun, though I'm still quite tired from traveling so I'm not as energetic as I would like to be.  Jenny and I are going to be co-teaching until December, so that gives me time to figure things out, get the hang of lesson plans, and check out some of the resources.  The English resource room is great!  They kids can watch movies, play games, read books all in English.  Today we did things like learn M, N, and O.  So I say "M, m, mouse!" and the kids repeat.  I can definitely handle that!  The school has around 500 students apparently, and I teach in the English centre.  It's Boeun's English centre so once a week a different school from a neighbouring village will come in with their students and we teach them English as well.  The rooms are fascinating!  There's an "Invention Room" and "Broadcast Room" and "Creativity Room".  I'm so interested to soak up all the teaching philosophies in this school.  Also they play classical music in the bathrooms.  Korea is definitely fascinating!

 My classroom, view from the doorway
 Just left inside the doorway.  My desk!
 Back of classrom
 Front of classroom.  The big TV is for PPT and other videos I may show.
 In the hallway, the windows into my classroom.
 I like the name of my classroom!  Life room.  Fitting I guess.
 This is the English resource room.  To the left are monitors set up for the kids to watch movies with Korean subtitles to help them learn English.  On the right are books for the kids to read and resource books.  That's one of my students!
 Dahe!  She is so lovely!  And is responsible for resourcing the English centre
 Supplies
 SamSan English Center.  That's the doorway into our hallway wing.
 View from the school into the playing field and toward the city.
 I think it's so interesting the playing field is sandy!  Kids having fun!
 Outside view of the school.  It's fairly large I think... many stories.
 They place a high value on cleanliness and there are sinks with soap everywhere!
 This is the view from the back door of the school.  If you look just beyond the blue roof building there is a green roof that you can barely see.  That's my apartment!
 View of the school from the back
 View of the school from the other side of the field.

 Two of my students I ran into when I was shopping for pillows for my bed.  They were watching me take pictures of so many other things and kept following me saying something I did not understand.  Finally I figured out they wanted me to take a picture of them!  Happy to oblige!  They are so cute!

There are probably a million things that I could add to this!  I'm just trying to soak everything in around me and keep smiling!  I think the hardest part is not having a single conversation with someone who actually knows me but thank God for the internet and for things like Skype, Facebook, email etc... keeps me connected and not missing people as much as I would.
If you would like my address for any reason (hint hint... I like cards haha) just ask away!  It's kind of a complicated addess but I'm happy to share it!  Oh, and I had to remove my nose ring.  I know at this moment my dad is happy... haha...
That's probably more than enough for now!  Probably the longest blog post I will ever write!!  I hope most of that made sense.  I'm of course going to share more as things happen... or as I remember what has already happened!  The first few days anywhere new are always a little overwhelming I think.
Thanks for your thoughts and prayers!!!